International Uli Biaho Expedition 2005

MEC Fall+Winter '06 Catalogue

2006-08-22T23:46:00.000-07:00

Jeremy and JC snatched the cover of the MEC Fall+Winter '06 Catalogue with their photo on the South Ridge of Uli Biaho Tower.
Check it out at www.mec.ca

Expedition Slideshow and photo gallery

2006-08-19T17:42:00.000-07:00

Treatise on Trango

2006-06-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

Last August, we climbed on some of the most inspiring rock spires in the Trango Valley of Pakistan -- situated amongst some of the tallest mountains on the planet such as K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum IV. We succeeded in making the first ascent of a 65-pitch rock route on a peak called Trango II. The 5-day climb gave us a real run for our money, and left us with a spiritual glow as we left Pakistan... just weeks before a devastating earthquake hit. The earthquake claimed over 80,000 lives. And this count and the human suffering that went with it would have been much higher were it not for the efforts of organizations such as Doctors Without Borders (MSF). We would like to support the efforts of the real heros that stepped in when it counted most.

So, we are inviting you to a benefit evening of slides, stories, and music at the Brew Pub on Monday, July 3rd at 8:30pm. Jeremy will talk about our trip to Pakistan (a similar presentation to the one he gave at the 2006 Vancouver Intl. Mountain Film Festival) and Katy Holm will talk about her recently climbing trip in Cuba. In addition, Ivan Tucakov of Tambura Rasa will be playing live music. Representatives of MSF will be there to talk about their efforts. Cost is $10 at the door with every single penny going to MSF's General Emergency Fund. MSR outdoor equipment company has kindly donated a new Mutha Hubba tent (worth $450) as a door prize.

Alpinist 15 and NZAJ 2005

2006-03-30T09:42:00.000-08:00

Check out the expedition write up in Alpinist 15. See http://www.alpinist.com/issues/current/ for more information.

The New Zealand Alipne Journal 2005 features a front cover photo and full feature article about the expedition. Check out www.alpineclub.org.nz for more details.

Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival

2006-01-19T15:20:00.000-08:00

VIMFF Alpine Climbing Evening
Canadian Alpinist Dave Dornian in New Tricks for the Old Dogs – Superlight in the St. Elias ; Jeremy Frimer in Cut Loose, Karakoram from climbing a new ascent on Trango II Tower; and other films on alpine climbing.

Wed Feb 22, 7:30pm (doors 6:30pm)
MacMillan Space Centre
1100 Chestnut Street, Vancouver
$15 at door

Check out www.vimff.org for more details

"Trango Unscripted"

2006-01-19T15:02:00.000-08:00

"Check out Jeremy Frimer's article on climbing Trango II. It's a phenomenal read on how climbing is both graceful and brutal, straight forward and convoluted, yet somehow wrenches at your soul to accomplish what you may have started." Editors Note
Breathe Magazine Winter issue 2005-2006

NZAC Climber Expedition Report and Cover shot

2005-11-15T08:50:00.000-08:00

Get a copy of 'the climber' Spring 2005 magazine from the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) and check out the cover shot of Sam on Severance Ridge and the full page expedition report on page 10. For more information visit the NZAC website www.alpineclub.org.nz

MEF FINAL REPORT

2005-10-10T15:59:00.000-07:00

The Mount Everest Foundation Final Report is now available for download.
(CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD FINAL REPORT)

Expedition Summary and Press Release

2005-09-11T10:17:00.000-07:00

The expedition summary and press release for 'Severeance Ridge' on Trango II are now available for download here (Files are in PDF format and require Acrobat Reader to open).

Press Release 'Severance Ridge' (Click Here)

Expedition Summary (Click Here)

Expedition draws to a close

2005-08-30T17:12:00.000-07:00

Fourty-some days after it began, the expedition comes to a close as the last of us board airplanes, departing Pakistan. The final few days were onerous ones as all of Jay, JC, and Jeremy were floored by dysentery. We are hugely satisfied with the trip and equally excited about returning to our homes. (Expect photos and a detailed trip report to be posted in the near future.)

A rough trip down the Karakorum Highway

2005-08-27T06:51:00.000-07:00

After watching the PIA flight from Islamabad to Skardu turn around
then return to Islamabad without landing, we jumped in a van for the journey on the long winding road of the infamous Karakorum Highway (KKH).

The 24hr non-stop cliff-edge motor derby delivered us pulverised, dizzy and diarrhoea ridden in Islamabad earlier today. The highway's reputation is well-deserved. We are now resting up for the evening before a debriefing with the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism tomorrow.

Team returns from Uli Biaho and Trango II

2005-08-22T09:45:00.000-07:00

The team is now back in Skardu safe and well after a very successful expedition. The highlight of the trip was a stunning first ascent of the 1700m West Ridge of a mountain we believe to be called Trango II (6327m). Underestimating the difficulty of the climbing the team took only 3 days food but ended up spending 5 days on the route in stormy conditions. The climbing was beautiful yet exceptionally challenging on sustained technical rock and ice for over 60 pitches. We named the line "Severance Ridge" (5.11, A2, M4)

After assessing the proposed NE Buttress line on Uli Biaho, the team decided not to attempt it due to unacceptable objective danger. A 60m high summit snow mushroom sat directly above our proposed line and avalanched an average of 2-3 times a day. On an early reconnaissance trip Jay and JC discovered a new access-way to the col beside the East Face and South Ridge of Uli. Here we set up an advance BC at 5200m and made a free attempt on Uli's South Ridge route, where Jeremy and JC got to within 400m of the summit but were hammered by storms and spent a cold three day bivy waitng for conditions to calm down.

Team arrives in Pakistan

2005-07-25T01:16:00.000-07:00

On Saturday (23rd July) the team arrived into the Islamabad International airport to be greeted by our tour agent Guluum from Blue Skies Treks and Tours. We were transported to our hotel where we have been organising our equipment and dealing with the Ministry of Tourism to arrange our trekking permit to enter the restricted zone of the Baltoro Glacier. Tomorrow we have a flight booked to take us to the village of Skardu along the Northern Karakoram Highway. However our hopes of taking this flight are slim as flights to this region have been canceled for the past three days and are now back logged. If we are unable to fly we shall hire a jeep and drive 24hours up the Karakoram Highway to Skardu. On arrival in Skardu we shall purchase our food before driving to the road end in Askoli where we will choose our porters before starting the trek to base camp.

The Expedition departs for Pakistan

2005-07-20T22:23:00.000-07:00

The team is now in final preperation for departure to Pakistan. On the 23rd July the team will unite in the city of Islamabad, Pakistan having traveled from Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA.

About the Expedition

2005-05-18T21:04:00.000-07:00

(Click Here for Map of the Central Karakoram)

Rising 2000m above the Trango Glacier, the northeast buttress of Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) is a stunning line. If we succeed in making its first ascent, it would rank among the longer rock climbs in the world.

Next door to the world-famous Trango Towers, Uli Biaho Tower has largely been overlooked by top climbers, primarily because of its dangerous approach. All three ascents of the mountain were preceded by an approach via the long, bombarded glacier gully below the east face. We intend to climb the well-featured northeast buttress immediately to the right of the gully for two reasons: (1) to double the amount of technical climbing, and (2) to avoid the objective hazard in the approach gully. After crossing over a minor pinnacle, we will reach the steeper second half of the buttress. There, we expect to encounter steep and sustained granite, which we anticipate will become icier as we gain elevation.

To our knowledge, the line has not been attempted. The face to its left has seen three other ascents (all Alpine style), by two routes. First, over the course of ten days in 1979, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Bill Forrest, and Ron Kauk made the first ascent of the Tower by the East Face (5.8, A4, 1100m). Then in 1988, Italians Maurizio Giordani, Rosanna Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, and Kurt Walde made the first ascent of the South Buttress (5.10+, A3, 800m) in four days. They managed to free over half of the 20-pitch route. Finally, in a three-day push, Guy Cotter, Paul Rogers, and Nick Craddock of New Zealand repeated the South Buttress in 1989.

We will attempt our line in Alpine Style. Owing to the colossal nature of the outing, we anticipate spending up to 6 nights on the climb. To save resources for challenging leads, we will split into groups of two and alternate days leading and jumarring with packs. However, we will move as a single unit throughout, never separated by more than a rope length. Although the 1979 team required portaledges, we anticipate finding ledges for bivouacking as the northeast buttress appears to be more featured than the East Face. We have no intention of hauling or of fixing ropes, nor will we bring equipment for doing so to Pakistan. If successful on the climb, we plan to rappel the ~500m northwest buttress—the line of weakness on Uli Biaho. It was attempted to within 100m of the summit by a French team led by Jean Frehel in 1974. A relatively straightforward trot down the Uli Biaho Glacier will return us to the Baltoro Glacier and basecamp.

From the roadhead at Askole, we will walk for three days to the Baltoro Glacier to make base camp on the Trango Glacier in late July. From there, it should be a short walk to the base of the northeast buttress.

Meet the Expedition Team

2005-05-18T20:40:00.000-07:00

Jeremy Frimer (28) is a graduate student in psychology, soon to transfer to UBC in Vancouver, Canada. During his nine years of climbing, he has traveled all over the Americas—from the Alaska Range to Torres del Paine (Chile)—in pursuit of the climbing dream. Jeremy has ticked classics including: The Nose of El Capitan; The Grand Wall and Alaska Highway in Squamish; the Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser of the Bugaboos; and Polar Circus in the Canadian Rockies. But his true penchant is for Alpine Climbing. He has climbed extensively on peaks between 5500m and 6500m in the St. Elias Mountains (Canada) and Peru. On Mt. Logan, Jeremy climbed the East Ridge in 1999 then made the first ascent of Orion Spur (IV 3500m) on the Northeast Face. For context, this was the first independent new route on Canada's highest peak in 23 years. During his four trips to Peru's Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash, Jeremy has climbed peaks such as Santa Cruz, Chopicalqui, Alpamayo, Paron, and Sarapo (5800m to 6354m). Most notably, Jeremy made the first ascent of the south face of Touching the Void famous Siula Grande by his 2001 route Southern Discomfort (ED1, 800m). Then in 2002, he made an attempt on the northwest face of Ulta, retreating one pitch from the summit ridge. The line was completed the next year by Kelly Cordes and Jim Earl, becoming Personal Jesus (ED2: 5.9, M7, 1000m). Jeremy is the author of the upcoming guidebook, Cordillera Huayhuash: Select Climbs and Treks (Elaho Publishing; in press). His photo of the southeast face of Jirishanca is found on the cover of the 2004 American Alpine Journal, accompanying his feature article on the peak inside.

Jay Piggott (23) is an Ecology student based half the year at the University of Otago in New Zealand and the remaining half at University of British Columbia in Canada. Jay first made headlines in New Zealand when he became the youngest person to climb Mt Aspiring (SW Ridge, grade 3+, 3027m) at age 15. However Jay’s achievements are not solely in the realm of mountaineering. His adventurous travels have taken him to 58 countries around the globe on various expeditions and adventures. Jay is an avid rock climber, mountaineer, paraglider, scuba diver and world traveler. Jay has often combined his adventurous exploits with ecological and humanitarian work for organizations such as the United Nations Environment Programme in Africa, Mother Teresa’s Missionary in India and the United Nations supported ‘Ship for World Youth’ sailing around the globe. Jay’s climbing achievements in New Zealand include The Grand Traverse (3+) of Mt Cook (3754m), East Face (4+) of Mt Sefton (3150m) and the South Face Central Coulouir (5+) of Mt Douglas (3086m). Jay has also climbed extensively in Thailand, Nepal, Scotland, the USA, Canada, and most recently in Alaska where he and Sam Johnson completed the first ascent of Paikea’s Journey (IV+, WI5, M5) on Thunder Mountain and the first ascent of Divine Providence (V, WI4, M6) Mt. Providence (Click for details of climb). To download Jay's resume CLICK HERE.

Samuel Johnson (25) is a mountain guide living in Anchorage, AK; he has guided the Upper West Rib of Denali. Sam shows his passion for climbing through multipitch Alpine rock and ice routes, high altitude mountaineering, and wall climbing. However, his ultimate penchant and aptitude are for ice and mixed climbing, where he has climbed pure ice to WI6+X, trad mixed routes to M7 R, and sport mixed routes to M9+. Sam has climbed over a dozen WI6 waterfalls including Nemesis, The Weeping Pillar, Pilsner Pillar, Curtain Call, and Rainbow Serpent in the Canadian Rockies; Shiva Lingam, Nuit Blanche, and Icelander in Chamonix, France; and Hard Ice Direct and Di Fronte al Taddimento Direct in Cogne, Italy. Notable ascents of mixed routes include Birdbrain Boulevard (IV WI5 M6 R) and The Skylight (IV WI5 M5/6) in Colorado. Turning to Alpine climbing, Sam has succeeded in making three notable first ascents in the Alaska Range: Smaug's Hoard (IV 5.10 R/X A2+) on The Throne of Little Switzerland; Divine Providence (V WI4 M6) on Mt. Providence; and Paikea's Journey (IV WI5 M5) on Thunder
Mountain. Sam also works as a river rafting guide. He paddled the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River (Class IV+) over the course of 18 days.

Jonathon Clearwater (24) is a research assistant and film producer, currently living and establishing new lines in the rugged Darran Mountains of New Zealand. During his 10 years of climbing, he has developed interests in the full spectrum of the sport: from bouldering to high altitude mountaineering. However, his passion and specific forte remains in climbing hard rock routes in isolated alpine environments. Jonathon's capabilities in this are best evidences by his outstanding summer season in the Darran Mountains, in which he established some of the hardest lines in the region. These include: Ram Paddock Road (5.11b, 9p) and Rock Candy (5.12a, 1p) on Mount Sabre; Liquid Toasted Sandwich (5.10c, 8p) on the South Face of Tiaroa; Brain Dynamics (5.11c, 3p) on the Diamond face of Moirs Mate; and The Whore of Babylon (5.12c) on Babylon Wall. In the Alpine, Jonathon has completed the Grand Traverse of Aoraki/Mt. Cook (3754m; NZ Alpine Grade IV) in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. And in 2004, he was part of an international clean-up expedition on Muztagata (7546m) in the Konlun Mountain range of China. During the expedition, he reached the summit. Jonathon also brings a strong background in film making to the team. During the past year, he produced New Zealand’s first feature length climbing film "Southern Faces".